It’s easy take cleansing for granted, since it seems like such a basic step. But the fact is, people often shortchange themselves by not cleaning thoroughly. Many women don’t feel that their skin is dirty in the morning, so they may not cleanse before applying makeup, and they lack the education and the correct products to effectively remove makeup at the day’s end. Proper cleansing is the foundation of vibrant, healthy skin.
Research conducted at The International Dermal Institute confirms that most women spend fewer than 20 seconds washing their faces in the morning. However, they may spend a bit more in the evening, if they are removing makeup. At least let’s hope so.
Improper and inadequate cleansing and the use of inappropriate products, such as conventional soap, all get a skin care regimen off on very dubious footing.
The problem is that consumers are using heavier oil-based moisturizers and more water-resistant makeup and sunscreens that are not adequately removed with water-based cleansers. Combine this with how quickly average individuals cleanse their skin and too many people are walking around with dirty skin.
For this reason, Gala’s Skin Care recommend a second cleansing to thoroughly remove oils from the skin. As a matter of fact, even if the skin is cleansed twice with a water-soluble cleanser, there still may be some oil-soluble substances that remain. When a cleanser is applied to the skin, surface active agents provide the primary cleansing action. During the initial cleansing process, the surfactants are emulsifying the fat or lipid grime, such as sebum, makeup, environmental hydrocarbons and sunscreens, allowing them to be solubilized in the rinse water. Meanwhile, the water-based portion of the cleanser solubilizes the water-soluble debris, namely sweat and some environmental pollutants. Considering the amount of material that potentially collects on the skin, it’s not surprising that this initial cleansing will only remove superficial debris and is not adequate for a thorough cleansing. Just a splash of warm water and a single pass with a sudsy gel or milky cleanser- even a good one-is not enough. In fact, a light oil-based solvent should be used on the skin first as an initial step and makeup dissolver.
A CLEAN START
FOR COMBINATION TO OILY SKIN TYPE:
Step1. Makeup dissolver (also removes heavy face makeup)
Step2. Selected cleanser
Step3. Spritz with toner, toner, freshener
Step4. Serum, day/night cream, sun screen
FOR NORMAL TO DRY SKIN TYPE:
Step1. Makeup dissolver (if makeup presents)
Step2. Water-soluble, oil-based cleanser
Step3. Spritz with toner, tonic or face freshener (many women underestimate it, but it’s essential to use it rinse of the residue of cleanser, restore pH, hydrate and calm just-cleansed skin, preparing it for moisturizer)
Step4. Serum, day/night cream, sun screen
Every morning and evening, regardless of our age, our skin deserves a clean start.
Gala’s Skin Care will welcome the opportunity to help you with the standard techniques and select the proper products for your skin type.
FIVE REASONS TO USE ONE COMPLETE SKIN CARE SYSTEM
Mixing up the skin care products you use (maybe a cleanser from the drugstore, a moisturizer from the department store, an anti-aging cream from that late-night infomercial) can drastically wreak havoc on your skin. Gala’s Skin Care recommend using a whole, complete system of professional skin care-and here’s why:
1. YOUR SKIN HATES CONFUSION.
It’s critical that the products you use compliment each other and work synergistically. Using different products from different companies can “confuse” your skin and throw it off balance-giving you less than optimal results. Stick to a consistent at-home agenda of products from the same line… your skin will thank you for it.
2. THERE’S NO NEED TO SEEK OUT “HOPE IN A JAR” ON YOU OWN.
Gala’s Skin Care can professionally asses your skin’s needs and recommend at-home agenda that takes away the guesswork and gives you maximum results.
3. PROFESSIONAL IS FLEXIBLE.
Gala’s Skin Care will monitor your progress, make necessary adjustments as your skin improves, and ensure that you are getting the maximum benefits from your skin care program.
4. THERE’S RHYTHM TO PROPER SKIN CARE.
And the fastest way to screw up that rhythm is by adding in or substituting products other than recommended. When you introduce new products into the mix (even those recommended by your best friend, you will change the “rhythm” of your topical skin care program. This interruption can set your skin back and cause new problems to occur.
What You need to know and why You need skin care
Skin is the body’s protective covering and an important defense against bacteria environmental pollutants. It’s fortified by a shield called the acid mantle, which is a combination of perspiration secreted from the sudoriferous (sweat) gland and oil secreted from the sebaceous gland. The acid mantle is only slightly acidic (with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5) and acts as a protective barrier that also regulates the skin’s oil and water balance. Many companies use high-alkaline products of pH 8 and up, which strip the skin of this precious, protective acid mantle barrier. This leaves the skin prone to disorders, including wrinkles, dry skin, infections, and blemishes. In contrast, the professional skin care products are pH-balanced to reinforce and work harmoniously with the acid mantle. This helps keep your skin young, firm, and vibrant—for only when the skin is permitted to function at its best can it look truly beautiful!
pH and the Acid Mantle
As a skin care professional, it is Gala’s Skin Care responsibility to educate and treat clients, and to enhance their wellness. Gala’s Skin Care ultimate purpose is to make clients feel better and look better.
The most common conditions that clients look to treat are acne and hyperpigmentation, and with both of these conditions using the right skin care products and follow by Gala’s Skin Care recommendations is essential to obtain result.
There are many products, drags and laser treatments on the market that claims to be good for acneic skin, but are often with dangerous side effects, irritating to the skin and too drying, causing more comedones (blackheads) and increased inflammation. If you or some one you know who is on Bactrim medication prescribed to treat acne please discontinue it has been linked to a Stevens Johnson Syndrome allergic reaction which can be fatal. Even those who recover from their are deal face life-long pain and decreased quality of life. Some patients become blind. Variety of medications including Ibuprofen, Ketex, Motrin, Cymbalta may have affected the risk of Stevens Johnson Syndrome.(FDA; 09/11).
Benzoyl peroxide(BPO),(contain 2% in Proactive products), the most widely used and studied OTC acne treatment in the U.S., not only dissolves acne plugs but also effective kills P.acne bacteria. For many, it seems to be the perfect acne solution. It’s also the most controversial. In addition to its tendency to dry and age the skin, it can cause irritation and even allergic contact dermatitis. BPO cannot be used in skincare products sold in Europe. “In 1995, the FDA changed BPO from a Category I (safe) ingredient to Category III (safety uncertain) because of the strong correlation between BPO and skin cancer in lab animals,”reports Glen Lockhart, director of research and product development at BiON Research. Still, many U.S. dermatologists consider BPO an important anti-acne ingredient and discount the study involving rats as insufficient evidence connecting it to skin cancer.
The most dangerous side effect of isotretinoin (Accutane), it can cause serious birth defects, such as fetal brain deformities, if taken during pregnancy. After it is discontinued people should stay away from pregnancy 7-10 years. There have also been isolated cases of depression and other mental disorders among people using this drug, that it may cause a loss of bone density, dry skin, nosebleeds, headaches, and join and muscle pain.
The weapon of choice against moderate cases of acne is topical tretinoin (Retin-A). It helps to keep the pores from becoming clogged by increasing the rate at which dead surface skin cells shed. Like isotretinoin, tretinoin should not be used during pregnancy. Use it with caution, because it renders the skin thin and extremely vulnerable to sun damage.
Some “sibling” forms of tretinoin are new formulas available at Gala’s Skin Care and proven a great result: TRETINOL 0.5%, RETINOL CS (3% Retinol and 4% Glycolic Acid) and RENEW SERUM (1% Retinol, 7% Glycolic and 1% Salicylic).
Avoid friction, pressure, rubbing, makes pimples more likely to rupture. Do not squeeze the spots.To do so is to risk increasing the inflammation by causing breaks in the skin in which harmful bacteria can lodge. Do not touch affected area. Avoid wearing tight clothing. Even using the telephone can exacerbate inflammation if you hold the receiver against you cheek for long period. Keep your hair away from your face, to prevent excess oil and bacteria from being deposited on the skin. As much as possible avoid stress.
Dirty pillows or makeup brushes can contribute to acne breakouts. Free makeup applications in a Department store may also transfer bacteria to the face. Keep hands and personal items that touch the face clean, never share makeup or your personal items with your best friend, mother or sister. Avoid the use of oral or topical steroids, which can aggravate acne. Many women suffer premenstrual acne flare-ups prompted by the release of progesterone after ovulation. Oral contraceptives high in progesterone can cause breakouts too. The presence of candidiasis can also cause hormonal changes that encourage the liver to produce the wrong substances for healthy sebum.
Moisturizers and sunscreen should be water- based. Makeup and skin care products in retail are all comedogenic, especially foundations and powders that are solids made with fatty ingredients. Some products for hair and skin can also trigger acne.
Advanced esthetic manufacturers are constantly updating their products with more natural, effective ingredients that leave the moisture and yet have a lasting antibacterial and/or anti-inflammatory effect.
In all cases of acneic skin, professional products use and skin support supplements are of the utmost importance. If you are suffering from these type of skin disorder call for your appointment today Gala’s Skin Care will be happy to help you.
Understanding sun-driven changes
External factors, such as sunlight, are responsible for many of the visible changes that take place in the skin. Although some minor alterations would occur regardless of a client’s amount of sun exposure, research indicates that up to 85% of visible aging is due to external factors.1 Client complaints regarding this damage are plentiful, and developing an understanding of how and when these changes take place will assist greatly in treatment.
The following are among the most common presentations of cutaneous sun damage.
Deep wrinkling. This is not associated with the normal-or intrinsic-aging process; fine lines are normal, deep wrinkles are not. The sun’s UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause the breakdown, disorganization and cross-linking of collagen. Cross-linking refers to what occurs when collagen fibers break down and fuse back together in a crisscross pattern.This process leads to reduced support and structure and, in the end, deep wrinkling. In addition, collagen and elastin breakdown in accelerated by an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Important MMP include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMP are increasing within minutes of UV exposure, making any time spent outdoors potentially destractive to the skin.2
Coarsering. This refers to keratinization of the skin, or the abnormal buildup of keratinocytes. Coarsering is responsible for the dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance often seen in more mature clients. Many refer to coarsening as an orange peel or leatherlike appearance. UVA and UVB radiation can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, and stratum corneum thickness can double as a result of repeated sun exposure. This obvious, rough-textured appearance only occurs in certain cases of sun damage.
Dehydration. This is common in nearly all cases of sun damage. Dehydration of the skin involves a lack of water moisture. Many incorrectly believe that sebum production decreases with age. In fact, the dryness that is common in clients with aging skin is due to a decrease in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). A drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is worsened by environmental exposure. Even the smallest disruption in this hydrating group of substances can significantly decrease surface moisture levels, and slow the desquamation and cell turnover process. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is another MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, increases in response to the inflammation caused by UV rays and free radical damage. Clients suffering from sun damage may experience a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This dryness can be exacerbated by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, or the regular use of inherently drying ingredients, such as alcohol or glycolic acid.
Hyperpigmentation. This is one of the most common concerns for mature clients. The melanogenesis, or pigment-producing process, generates melanin in response to inflammation, and UV exposure significantly increases inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis.
Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as random, sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the higher, more exposed areas of the face, such as the top of the forehead or the bridge of the nose.
Overall, there are five crucial changes responsible for accelerated visible aging:
- The degradation of collagen and elastin
- The overproduction of MMP enzymes
- A decrease in the skin’s NMF
- An overproduction of epidermal cells
- An increase in melanin production
To relieve client’s sun damage concerns Gala’s Skin Care offer in-spa treatments-particularly Liposomal Ferulac, Green Peel-is highly recommended, manual microdermabrasion, Organic hydrating treatment, Caviar and Signature treatments.The collagen-stimulating and exfoliating benefits associated with all types of procedures will significantly accelerate results. Research indicates that all above treatments are stimulate the production of collagen. In addition, each treatment either dissolves dead skin cells or dissolves the bonds that hold them together, which will decrease surface buildup, increase cell turnover and support NMF retention, smooth texture changes, such as wrinkling.
Although it is true that each person will continue to age, there are measures that can be taken to limit the severity of visible skin aging. Prevention is, of course, ideal, and clients of all ages should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning. Antioxidants and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors are also important preventative steps, and sunscreen as Optimum Protection(by Dr.med Christine Schrammek cosmetik) is formulated with protective antioxidants and MMPi ingredients for convenience.
Once the damage is done, it is not to late. Clients should use a combination of corrective ingredients that address multiple concerns simultaneously for the fastest possible results. In-spa procedures will also significantly accelerate outcomes.
1. J Herschthal and J Kaufman, Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies, Expert Review of dermatology 2 753-761 (2007)
2. GJ Fisher, ZQ Wang and SC Datta, et al, Molecular basis of sun- induced premature skin aging and retinoid antagonism, Nature 379 335-339 (1996)
Get serious about smoking
It’s always easy to talk about premature signs of aging that appear due to sun exposure or poor diet because everyone continually hear the facts and statistics about UV rays and skin damage, as well as the connection between a healthy diet and healthy skin.
But the topic of smoking and the skin has never been as widely discussed. Of course, it is commonly known that smoking is bad for your health, but its specific effects on the skin are rarely discussed in detail.
As skin care professional, Gala’s Skin Care responsibility to change the way you talk about smoking and the skin. It may be easy to say “Don’t smoke because it’s bad for your skin,” but you already know that basic truth. It’s time to start a real dialogue about just how damaging smoking is to the skin, and how significant and premature the effects can be.
You may be a 20-something, and a social smoker who has only a few cigarettes on the weekends when out with friends and don’t feel the need to quit because you see no signs of aging. Or, you may be a pack-a-day smoker coming to me because you see the deep lines, rough texture and skin discoloration. Either way, it’s time to start talking and educate you in a way that is not lecturing, but is enlightening. Then, begin to treat your skin with ingredients and treatments that will improve skin function and appearance.
Smoking chokes skin. The fountain of youth is in the bloodstreams, but smoking cigarettes causes a restriction of the blood vessels, “choking” them, which then reduces blood supply to the skin. This results in a reduction in oxygen, which is necessary for cell regeneration and the ability to carry away damaging free radicals, so toxins build up and accelerate aging.
Even smoking a single cigarette can result in vasoconstriction for up to 90 minutes. Smoking for 10 minutes decreases tissue oxygen for almost an hour.2 That means a pack-a-day smoker will have skin with a reduced oxygen supply for most of the day.
Smoking thins skin. A resent British study focused on 25 pairs of identical twins, one a lifetime smoker and one who never smoked. Using an ultrasound to gauge skin thickness, the smokers’ skin was 25% thinner than the nonsmokers’, and was as much as 40% thinner in a few of the cases.3
Smoking destroys skin’s collagen and elastin. The appearance of wrinkles and loose or sagging skin is caused by the destruction of collagen and elastin-complex structural proteins that are necessary to keep skin firm, elastic and strong. Smoking robs skin of vitamin C, which is necessary for collagen production, and keeps skin soft and revitalized. It also interrupts the production of the matrix metalloproteinase enzyme, which regulate collagen production.
Smoking causes vertical lines around the mouth. When smokers take a puff from a cigarette, it forces the lips to pucker and form the same lines around the mouth over and over again. Throughout time, these contractions become permanent wrinkles. Pucker lines are a dead giveaway that someone is a smoker.
Smoking slows skin healing. Smoking delays the skin’s ability to regenerate. Wounds take longer to heal, and scars are more likely to form. Many good cosmetic surgeons won’t even operate on a smoker.
Even if you don’t see age signs yet, they can take up to 10 years to appear. This is a great fact for young clients who feel if they don’t see the damage yet, they don’t have to worry.
Start today your road to a smoke-free life and visit help online: www.smokerfree.gov and women.smokerfree.gov
At home. Recommended use oxygenating skin care products also daily topical cosmeceutical vitamin C in high concentration to help smoker’s skin naturally repair itself and daily broad-spectrum SPF.
However, for clients who are making the choice to quit smoking and save their skin, Gala’s Skin Care can help with treatments that will rehydrate the skin, revitalize the complexion and deliver the needed oxygen that’s been robbed by cigarettes.
CALL TO SCHEDULE YOUR APPOINTMENT TODAY FOR SMOKER’S SKIN FACIAL
1. By Barbara Salomone, president and founder of Bioelements
2. JB Smith, NA Fenske, Cutaneous manifestations and consequeces of smoking, J Am Acad Dermatol 34 5 717–732 (May 1996)
3. T Andrew, et al, Are twins and sigletons comparable. A study of disease-related and lifestyle characteristics in adult women, Twin Res 4 6 464-477(Dec 2011)
Teens and melanoma
13% of young adults DON’T understand the melanoma/skin cancer link with tanning
33% of young adults DON’T understand that limited tanning helps prevent melanoma
81% of young adults think tanned skin looks better than pale skin
It is more important than ever to understand the dangers of sun exposure and the possibility of melanoma. Here are several common teen misperceptions about cancer and sun exposure, followed by the real story.
Teens believe: Skin cancer only happens to people over 40.
Real story: According to the December 2008 issue of Skin & Aging magazine, among young American adults aged 25-29, melanoma is the most commonly diagnosed cancer, and the №.1 cause of cancer death among 15-20 years old.
Teens believe: Tanned skin looks healthier than pale skin.
Real story: Tanned skin is actually an indicator that the skin is damaged, so there is no safe tan.
Teens believe: Tanning beds are safer than the sun because they don’t have UVB rays burn the skin.
Real story: Tanning beds can expose an individual to four times the amount of UVA and two times the amount of UVB as a similar period of sun exposure. People are unable to feel UVA rays on their skin, but they contribute the most to skin aging and skin cancer.
Teens believe: You only need to wear sunscreen on sunny summer days.
Real story: UVA rays penetrate through clouds and windows, and are reflected off concrete, asphalt, snow and grass. These rays are present from sun up to sun down, year-round.
Teens believe: Wearing sunscreen every day will cause a vitamin D deficiency.
Real story: The human body only needs 20 minutes of noontime exposure to sunshine a day, on the head, neck and hands, to make about 1,000 international units (IU) of vitamin D. Oral vitamin D supplements have been found to be as effective as sun exposure, and the human body does not know the difference between the two.
Teens believe: You don’t need to use sunscreen if you are naturally tan.
Real story: All colors of skin, regardless of race, should be using sunscreen. Naturally darker Fitzpatrick skin types have a lower incidence of skin cancer, but when melanoma is discovered on darker skin, it is more advanced than on lighter skin.
Remember the ABCDEs of skin cancer detection:
A-Asymmetry. Most early melanomas are asymmetrical. This means that you cannot draw a line down the middle and have equal parts on each side.
B-Boarders. The borders are uneven.
C-Colors. Varied shades of brown, tan or black are often the first signs of melanoma.
D-Diameter. Early melanomas tend to grow larger than common moles. Pay attention to spots that are larger than diameter of a pencil eraser.
E-Evolving. Changing in any parameter: color, size, shape or feel.